The most attractive focal point in the lounge of a home, HAS to be the fireplace!! And whether you have a fireplace or a Stove, they will, on most occasions, require a chimney. For any real fire to work properly, it must be, fully connected to a sound chimney with an accurately sized flue. The natural function of a chimney, is to safely & efficiently eliminate the end products of combustion from the fireplace or stove to the air outside of the home, protecting the occupants of the house from danger and or from setting the house on fire.
THE PROCESS
A chimney works due to the fact that hot air rises and continuously moves, from high to low pressure, and so in order to perform appropriately, the heat within the chimney MUST stay very hot, otherwise, the gasses will cool down - they won't rise - and they will therefore drop back down towards the stove or fire and potentially, into the room. This is why it's always good practice to gradually heat up the flue before loading the stove or fire with fuel. Warming up the flue in preparation of starting a fire will kickstart the engine (chimney) and thus, gently coax out the compressed cold air that has built up within the chimney, when it's not in use. And so, once the chimney is hot, this will cause, within the stack, a pressure difference, between the density of the air outside the home and the gases inside the chimney, called draft, which works by way of the dense, outside air, pushing itself, into the home, into the stove or fire & essentially pushing the hotter (lighter) waste gases up the stack and out of the property. A chimney essentially works (much better) when it's hot and so, the hotter the gasses within the chimney, the stronger the draft (pressure difference) thus, resulting in, a better (cleaner) fire.
DO I NEED TO LINE MY CHIMNEY?
In houses, built after the introduction of the 1965 Building Regulations, all flues, were to be built with liners at the time of their construction. This was and is usually done with clay lining systems which should potentially last the lifetime of the building. Houses built prior to 1965 were lined not so much and so therefore, the flues within the chimney stack at this time were usually rendered on the inside with lime mortar however, this method of rendering often suffered major attacks from acids & tars that were produced during the combustion of solid fuel fires. With this tarring, the flue would deteriorate through time and therefore leak fumes & tars from the fire, into the walls and or other parts of the building. During the course of our work, we have found that houses built after 1965, have suffered the same fate as those built prior due to badly installed flue liners, some of which, after inspection, have unbelievably been installed upside down, and or without any proper, adequate sealing. Ultimately making them unsafe for use. Installing a flue liner ( correctly ) into a damaged (unfit) flue is the cheapest means of remedy to an unsafe chimney.
WHAT DO HETAS SAY?
Whenever a stove or a fireplace is to be installed into a chimney, HETAS always insist that a flue liner is installed and since stoves are designed to operate with a flue diameter as closely matched to that of the outlet size of the stove, by installing a liner, it reduces the diameter of the chimney flue, creating a sealed, system from the stove to the chimney pot and this truly does maximise the potential of a stove.
There are a number of reasons why a chimney may need lining.
1. The flue is leaking smoke and fumes (carbon monoxide) into other rooms, or parts of the building.
2. If the chimney was built after 1965, but with the liners fitted upside down, tar and leakage can occur.
3. The old flue surface is eroded and so is causing resistance to the flow of gasses, resulting in poor draft.
4. Condensates and or tar are seeping through the chimney walls causing staining, inside or outside the
building (a common problem with wood burning stoves).
5. The chimney flue is much too large for the type of fire or appliance being used.
6. To promote energy efficiency and to reduce the consumption of wood/fuel.
7. The flue is too cold, particularly if on an outside wall and so is not drawing properly.
5 YEAR INSTALLATION WARRANTY
As a company, we strongly believe that all chimneys serving a stove or fireplace should be lined with a stainless steel liner and whether or not they are lined with an existing clay lining system. For even though a chimney stack can pass a pressure test, it is always a potential victim to wear and t (as well as chimney fire) somewhere down the line and so, in order for our customers to avoid unnecessary hassle and substantial cost at a later date, we believe that a liner at the time of installation would be the best course of action to take. And to qualify for our 5 year installation warranty, a liner must be installed (at the time of the installation) with the stove as well as with any stove or fireplace purchased through us. We supply & install only the best flue liners on the market, that come with a 15 and a 30 year guarantee!
We work hard to give our customers the best deal possible - so we supply flue liners from 4 different manufacturers!!
There are two, recognizably different types of stainless steel liners available and if one is going to be installed, it is vitally important to identify the difference between them. A flexible steel liner, made for use, in a solid fuel stove and or fire is double skinned & made from a high quality stainless steel known as 316 or 904 grade. It is smooth on the inside, in order to encourage the flow of flue gases, and to discourage, the build up of soot and other potentially corrosive residue. And it is corrugated on the outside, to provide *crush protection* during the installation and it must be installed the correct way up.
A liner in 316 or 904 grade is designed for relining chimney flues for solid fuel and wood-burning stoves & fires and although stainless steel is a resilient material, it is *still vulnerable to corrosion* with respect to the acid build up from the fumes generated from solid fuel. And especially, if condensation is present! So it is vital, that after a flexible, steel liner has been installed into a flue, that it is not only introduced to the proper fuel, but that the stove connected to said liner is not slumbered. A wood-burning or multi-fuel stove, MUST be operated in accordance with the manufacturers instructions, and serviced annually (at least) along with the flue liner.
The second type of flexible steel liner available are the liners constructed for gas and oil. This liner is lighter in thickness and manufactured, from a single strip of 316 grade stainless steel. These flue liners are suitable for closed gas fires and boilers. They are also suitable, for some inset gas fires and also oil appliances where the temperature does not exceed 260ºC. A single skinned, stainless, flexible liner should NEVER, EVER be used, with solid-fuel or with a wood-burning stove, given that it's merely a single skinned flue.
HOW ARE THEY INSTALLED?
Stainless steel liners are simultaneously guided/pulled down a chimney. From up top the liner is passed down whilst being pulled from below. A flexible liner will pass round most bends without the need to open up the flue however, with some more stubborn bends, opening up the chimney stack in certain places to gain entry to the flue bend(s) may be necessary to install the liner fully!! These instances are rare and in 5 years, we have only had to do this twice. All holes are repaired afterwards.
HOW DOES IT ALL FIT TOGETHER?
A support plate is installed, at the base of the chimney pot which clamps the liner, mounting it at the top of the chimney so that the stove/fire doesn't suffer the weight of the liner. A specifically designed cowl (a pot-hanger) can also be used for support. The liner, is then fixed at the base of the chimney stack before it forms a sealed connection to the stove, via an adaptor (or gather for a fire) and flue pipe. Finally, the liner is then ventilated at the top of the chimney stack, with an air gap, to aid the escape of moisture buildup (condensation in the stack)
When a chimney is lined with a flue liner - at this time - the liner, ultimately, becomes the NEW flue, within the chimney stack (a new flue within the old existing flue) and with it being made of stainless steel, it will tend to heat up much quicker than the standard clay-lined flue that it's now housed within, creating a strong updraft. This means that waste flue gases will travel much faster up the flue, maintaining a high temperature and so a more consistent draft. A warm flue, will collect less waste deposits, which means cleaning is so much easier, allowing your stove to perform at its optimal performance. It is VITAL, that ALL existing chimney's are swept thoroughly before a stainless steel flue liner is installed. Failure to do so can cause a number of very serious issues, one being a chimney fire. Lining the chimney with a steel flexible flue will ultimately help the stove to operate much more efficiently. It is a much safer practice, (one we like to follow) for all intents and purposes.
There are 3 main components to a flue liner kit, which are detailed below.
This cowl screws onto the top end of the flue liner and
it's then strapped around the pot, suspending the liner.
The flue liner travels the full length of the chimney, becoming the new flue, within the chimney stack.
This is a screw-fit adaptor, which screws tightly onto the bottom end of the liner and into the stove pipe.
PROS
Whilst the insulation of a steel flue liner has many benefits, such as, helping to maintain heat within the liner, which in turn helps the stove to burn more efficiently, a warm - insulated - flue ultimately helps the waste gases run at an even temperature (up the flue) preventing cold spots within the liner (which can cause tar build up). Fundamentally a warm (insulated) flue helps the waste gases to leave the property much quicker. Insulating around a flue liner can prevent it from slumping within the chimney void, by keeping it rigid and centralized. Overall this can help prevent thermalshock of the liner not to mention reducing movement when being swept; an insulated flue liner can aid to a longer life span.
CONS
A downfall to having a flue liner insulated can be dampness appearing within the property!! If water should happen to get inside the chimney stack or if condensation from the liner becomes hazardous, the insulation wrapped around the full length of the flue liner can therefore become damp and create wet patches along the chimneys flue path resulting in the staining of the properties internal wall(s). For this very reason we NEVER insulate our flue liners. However if an insulated flue is desired by you we can perform this service for you using Perlite but *ONLY* if a disclaimer is signed!
THE PROCESS
The flue liner - with a rope tied to the end of it, via a nose cone - is manually fed into the chimney from the top whilst simultaneously being pulled from below by the rope.
Once the liner has been installed and fully supported at the top with the suspending cowl, the flue liner is then cut to the appropriate length and the liner adaptor is fitted.
THE COMPLETE PROCESS - FROM THE STOVE TO THE POT
A steel flue liner runs the entire length of the chimney, i.e. from the stove to the chimney pot. Once the liner has been installed into the chimney flue, a specially designed cowl called, a pot-hanging (suspending) cowl is then attached to the top end of the liner. These cowls are designed specifically *for flexible flue liners* since they enable the liner to be installed without the need to remove the chimney pot. The bottom end of the liner is fitted with an attachable adaptor, which connects into the stove pipe, that connects to the stove. Every component, the cowl to the liner, the liner to the adaptor, the adaptor to the stove pipe and the stove pipe, to the stove, is pinned together to create a continuous, one piece system housed within the chimney, creating a gastight unit which won't separate or dislodge when being swept.
WE USE FLUE LINERS FROM 4 DIFFERENT MANUFACTURERS
DRAGON FLEX BY MIDTEC - WWW.MIDTEC.CO.UK
TECNOFLEX BY SCHIEDEL - WWW.SCHIEDEL.COM
QUATTRO-PLUS BY MI-FLUES - WWW.MI-FLUES.COM
DURA FLUE BY FLUE & DUCTING - WWW.FLUE-DUCTING.CO.UK
A lot of companies choose to insulate their liners once installed into a chimney. In this instance, it can be beneficial to use a standard bird guard instead of a pot-hanging cowl and thus inserting a steel sleeve into the top end of the liner. A steel sleeve, protects the top end of the liner from being caught by sweeping brushes when the flue is being swept, possibly causing it to unravel, downwards towards the stove along with the brushes, thus creating the need for a new liner. It also protects the liner from being crushed when the top plate and clamp are being installed, both of which, are required for this option, which can be viewed via the image on the right. An alternative to a pot-hanging cowl method.
SEE HERE A VIDEO OF HOW IT'S ALL CONNECTED
We supply and install flue liners in basic kits and as full installation packages for both wood-burning and multi-fuel stoves, as well as for solid fuel and gas fires and fireplaces.
We supply and Install 316 Grade liner for woodburning ONLY!! Although this flue liner is designated for 'some coal' we have found that with prolonged coal burning it can reduce the liners lifetime to around 5-6 years, thus requiring renewal and creating extra, undesirable cost.
We use, DURA FLUE and, SCHIEDEL products when installing our high end stoves & fireplaces since theyre arguably, the best flue liners currently on the market & with our fireplace and stove package deals, we tend to use other liners & products which are also of excellent quality such as, DragonFlex and Quattro-Plus above.
A 904 Grade liner we supply and Install for all multifuel stoves & fireplaces. This liner, is designed for use with wood, coal and smokeless fuels, however, we strongly advise to only using HETAS approved smokeless fuel. A 904 Grade liner, has improved resistance to acids.
❖ ❖ ❖
"I required a flue liner to be installed in my property for my wood burning stove so I called few companies out to give me some prices. The quotes I received almost knocked me over. Expensive to say the least and all for a long tube of steel! (at least to my thinking) I was quoted £650 for scaffolding alone to get to the roof as one fitter told me he was risking his life. Thank God for Mark. Not only did he get the job done without the scaffolding, his quote was almost half that of the others. Delighted is an understatement. Lovely job by a lovely chap!" - Jim Simmons Buckingham
❖ ❖ ❖
Grate Inspirations
Stove and Fireplace Installation
Copyright © 2019 GRATE INSPIRATIONS - All Rights Reserved.
WWW.TREATINGYOURHOMELIKEOUROWN.COM